'It was real; it happened'
The Kimi Ryokan
My room
Most of all--
One Lucky bar. The photos come from the late 80s but there by god is Patrick, the bane of the Kimi, in the photos section.
I can't remember how one got from the Kimi to One Lucky-- it seemed to involve a path through a field by a canal, which is surely impossible.
Twenty years ago is indeed twenty years ago.
My room
Most of all--
One Lucky bar. The photos come from the late 80s but there by god is Patrick, the bane of the Kimi, in the photos section.
I can't remember how one got from the Kimi to One Lucky-- it seemed to involve a path through a field by a canal, which is surely impossible.
Twenty years ago is indeed twenty years ago.

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I didn't recognise my own childhood homes though - funny that they should leave less memory. My mother did when I showed her the view, so it is me rather than physical changes. We trust our memories because they're part of us.
I'm mithering; I'll stop before I reach a conclusion I don't like.
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Why was this guy the bane of the Kimi? Did he buttonhole people and bore them to death?
BTW, on a tangent, I was wondering how long it would take for someone to trot out the old chestnut: "You can stay here as long as you want, but you'll never be Japanese"; I heard it less than two weeks after I arrived from an expat who managed to bore me senseless over the course of a group dinner.
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The woodblock prints of the 20s and earlier will show you what it was like to have fields in Shibuya. It hurts.
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In Tokyo there's the problem of it not going down *every* little alleyway and by-street. I think I may have found where my old school was, but the street looked unrecognizable, even the landmarks I could identify.
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Oddly I don't remember it being unbearably smoky. Either I was tougher in my early Tokyo days or he'd eased off some. But I was tougher in Tokyo generally-- I'd eat in Denny's without problem but then have to change my clothes when I got home.
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Patrick-- oh argh. Patrick was WASP entitlement from a well-to-do Toronto family, with assumed authority on all things Tokyo and a general grievance against the world. Loud, querulous, monolingual-- the old-time expat kind who, in the words of a friend, 'thought he owned the world even if he couldn't talk to it.' You've probably met his kind, or will. He was just more belligerent and of course, always there in the lounge holding forth about who had insulted him today.
I've found that 'You'll never be Japanese' only bothers those people who think they want to be ie who want the privileges attached to uchi-ness without realizing the restrictions thereof. Same friend, practically bilingual, partly schooled in Japan, once said, 'I was getting sad last night about the fact that I'll never be Japanese, never be really be on the inside-- and then I thought 'Am I mad? Would I *want* to join the Army?' Which, yes. Only twenty years ago it was more like the Marines.
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Your comment on the "You'll never be Japanese" thing is spot-on...I get why foreigners who have been here for a long time would get a bit tired of having their non-Japanese-ness shoved in their faces, but, yeah, it's not always a bad thing to be an outsider.